Apart from modern favourites like the Royal Semirames, Golden Mazzeh and Four Seasons hotels, Damascus now also offers small and refined traditional courtyard hotels such as the Beit Zafran and Beit al Mamlouka offering excellent lodging and a unique experience. 

Royal Semiramis Hotel
Syria's first luxury hotel, built in 1950 and named after the legendary Assyrian Queen Shammuramat, the builder of Babylon, has been recently brought up to date, with comfortable rooms and modern art throughout. On the roof, there's a pool, gym and terrace with great views. The 7th-floor Tawabel restaurant is where guests enjoy breakfast and where everyone is welcome to sample excellent Syrian dishes for lunch and dinner. After 22:00, the shisha pipes light up here, and you can also enjoy a smoke in the Cigar Lounge. The Marco Polo restaurant is currently the only place in Syria for Asian fusion food, open for dinner. The city centre location, overlooking the main road toward the old town, means you can easily walk to most historical sights. Indicative room rates, including 12.5% tax: singles from $460, doubles $495-560, suites $790.

Golden Mazzeh Hotel
One of the top luxury hotels in town, located in the south-western Al-Mazzeh district of the city, Golden Mazzeh is well-placed for the embassies and international organisations in this district but is still just a 20-minute taxi ride to the old town or 30 minutes to the airport. The newly built highrise is infused with surprising modern art, both in the public areas and the spacious rooms, some with sweeping city views. There are no less than nine restaurants and bars, including an Italian garden restaurant, the Dukes Bar pub, and the top-floor Sky Diyar serving top-end Syrian food, and cocktails along Syria's longest bar or on a glass floor with views straight down. The highlight of the hotel is the large outdoor pool and terrace (open summer only), where sunbathers are regularly treated to live music and DJ sessions. Double rooms $169-189, suites $250-400.

Four Seasons Hotel Damascus
Halfway between the old town and Umayyad Square, the elegant highrise of the Four Seasons is the most prestigious and best-secured hotel in town. It has been the preferred accommodation and party location for diplomats, UN staff, the local high society and all kinds of wheelers and dealers for decades. The Four Seasons brand pulled out of the deal in 2019, but the hotel continues to make use of the name and still has high standards. With a pool, spa and several restaurants accessible to guests only, the 300 rooms come at a high cost; doubles start around $300, bookable via HalaSyria.

Beit Zafran
A fabulous boutique hotel in a splendid Ottoman mansion from 1836, the 'house of saffron' has been lovingly restored by a Swiss-Syrian couple. The 12 rooms are sumptuously furnished; decorated with traditional crafts and textiles; and come with a/c, heating and large bathrooms. Guests can relax and sip complimentary herbal tea in the central courtyard, with a fountain and fragrant citrus trees – smelling even better as, uniquely, the whole hotel is non-smoking. Dinner is served at the rooftop restaurant Veranda, with great old town views all round. Find Beit Zafran in the eastern part of the old town, behind St Teresa Church. Room rates vary from $210 for a single room to $230 for a double and $510 for the suite and can be booked through what is probably the best hotel website in town. 

Beit al Mamlouka
The most beautiful and famous of the Damascene boutique hotels in the Old Town, Beit al Mamlouka has a dazzlingly decorated central courtyard and just 8 beautiful rooms in traditional style. Near the Armenian Catholic Church in the lively old town streets around Bab Touma gate, the hotel offers golf cart transfers from the Bab Touma taxi drop-off point. This is the perfect place to kick back and relax from your sightseeing tours. Single rooms $122, doubles $144, suites $166-178. Their larger Dar al Mamlouka sister hotel is just down the alley and offers similarly sumptuous boutique rooms. 

Talisman Hotel
This beautiful 150 year old Damascene house, the former residence of a Jewish trading family, reveals itself slowly after you enter the unassuming front door. With several courtyards surrounded by sumptuous rooms, its centrepiece is the gorgeous pool, one of just a handful in the city centre. The Talisman has seen a fair few prominent guests in its past, but the most prominent future guest could be you. 

Beit Al-Wali Hotel
One of the most luxurious of the traditional Old Town hotels, in the eastern Christian part of town, Beit Al-Wali has some spectacular courtyards with elaborate decoration, surrounded by well-appointed rooms. In the morning, you can expect a fantastic Syrian breakfast spread. 

Julia Dumna Boutique Hotel
Housed in a landmark 1942 building designed by Spanish-born architect Fernando de Aranda – also the architect of the Hejaz railway station building – Julia Dumna is a luxury boutique hotel situated near the massive Central Bank, along busy 29th May Street. The interior features a glamorous crystal chandelier and artwork by Syrian artist Badie Jahjah. Its 32 rooms are spread across four themed floors – Kadmous, Caracalla, Europa, and Fairouz. Guests can enjoy all-day dining at the Aranda Café or visit the seasonal rooftop Sky Bar for fusion bites, cocktails and panoramic views of Mount Qasioun.