A ten-minute drive west of the old town, Umayyad Square is the high-decibel, high-traffic heart of modern Damascus, a large traffic circle where seven busy roads and a tunnel are the site of some of the country's most appalling driving, yet somehow it all flows. Standing tall to the southeast is the iconic Damascene Sword or seif, a towering monument of steel and stained glass that serves as the city's unofficial logo. Built for the International Fair in the 1960s, it refers to the ancient tradition of sword-making in Damascus. It is the focus of all street celebrations, demonstrations and revolutions and a prime spot for a bit of urban theatre. The square is flanked by the sprawling Tishreen Park, the defence ministry and the imposing Opera House. You're likely to pass it at some time during your visit, and it's not a problem to ask the driver to pull over for a few photos.