The view from Kastav, a fortified settlement on a hilltop just northwest of Rijeka, is simply breathtaking. You can see the green hills cascading down to the sea on the Opatija Riviera and the islands of Kvarner spread out before you. The well-kept little town, the former manorial seat of feudal families who ruled for miles around, has a wealth of historical buildings and fortifications, and is utterly charming. And gastronomy is one more very good reason to visit.

Restaurant Kukuriku has been kept by the same family for 115 years. In a beautiful building just outside the town gate, its terrace is an idyllic spot to while away the hours enjoying a “slow food” meal on the terrace - a perfect vantage point under the shade of a canopy of trees. “Slow food” has developed as an antidote to a pace of life which forces us to regard food as a necessity we barely have time for. In Croatia, it supports a renaissance in traditional cuisine. Restaurants for years suffered from monotony and an under-investment of care and inspiration. Now, old regional recipes are being brought to light and nurtured as an aspect of tourism which adds quality, depth and uniqueness to your experience.

Take a look at Kukuriku’s entry in our “Where to eat” section (under “Out of town”). We believe you’ll agree with us that this is something special. And when you’ve finished your meal, take a wander through the beautiful town gate (1731) and explore the quiet streets within, where you’ll find the 14th century Church of the Holy Trinity, where some of the oldest Glagolitic scripts in the region were found; the baroque Parish Church of St Helen on the Cross, dating back to 1709; the former Captain’s Residence (now the village school), and the first Croatian Reading Room on the Istrian Peninsula – vital to the preservation and development of the Croatian language. There’s an ethnological museum – tel. (051) 69 14 25; a museum of barrels (!) – tel. (051) 69 14 25; and a department of the Maritime and History Museum of Rijeka which has a special collection relating to Kastav. Kastav truly is a town with a rich personality and past.

When you’ve finished, enjoy a coffee in one of several delightful cafes on the square outside the town gate, enjoying the view of the fort, the large and picturesque Loggia (1571) and the tiny 16th century chapel of St Fabian and St Sebastian. Since Kastav is becoming more and more popular as a place to visit, several other restaurants have opened on this square, including the excellent café and pizzeria Loža , and Kastav Pub and restaurant – good for a budget priced meal. Kastav, though truly part of Kvarner, very much resembles typical hilltop towns in neighbouring Istria, so often described as “the new Tuscany”. Don’t miss it.