Take a drive south from Opatija along the coast road lined with villas and stunning vistas, and you come to the pretty resort of Mošćenička Draga. On a ridge just above, you’ll see the village of Mošćenice. Don’t miss the chance to take the road up. Mošćenice was also an independent community within the Kastav estates, and behind its stone gate (where there once is thought to have been a drawbridge) you’ll find a number of listed monuments. On the site of a fort built before Roman times, a fortified Medieval settlement began to grow. Inside is a beautifully preserved maze of narrow streets in a circular arrangement. The bell tower, which you can see from miles around, belongs to the 17th century Parish Church of St Andrew, which got a baroque facelift courtesy of the Jesuits in 18th century. The tiny church of St Bartholomew (1628) and votive church of St Sebastian (1506) both have unusual covered porches. In town, just behind the gate, the square building acted as a fort, and the open-sided loggia was the place for both administration and socialising. House number 60 houses a stone olive press in superb condition, also a protected monument, and you can visit the Ethnological Museum to get a feel for the rural life of the inhabitants - tel. (051) 73 75 51. Just outside the walls is a pilgrim path, the Calvary, dotted with 18th century shrines. This is where you’ll get the best view.

If you get hungry while you’re there, we recommend you drop into the excellent family restaurant Johnson (on the road back down towards Opatija, see “Where to eat”). Otherwise, drop into Mošćenička Draga and enjoy a bathe on the lovely beach or a snack in one of the beachside cafes.