Located just below street level, with low ceilings and a stone floor, the decor is plain and simple, not kitschy. If you didn’t know it was there, you’d probably miss it – the entrance is almost unmarked, except for small white sign that reads Zakusochnaya, helpfully translated as “Lunch Room/Snack Bar”. It’s close to one edge of the historic center, fairly near a factory (though you wouldn’t know it from the surrounding architecture), so the regulars tend to be coming on their way to or from work, there to play chess or watch a football game over a drink.