Explore beyond Krupówki and Zakopane throws up surprises like this one. Hidden on a residential street is U Obrochtowka, a great big lodge dating from 1898 and surrounded by a Hansel and Gretel garden that feels like a fairytale to enter. Inside there’s the usual boar pelts, pickaxes and little ornaments crafted from grass, so it’s a great shame that the proprietors interfere with the atmosphere by playing out Disco Polo – a perverted din that mixes folk with dance beats. Nevermind, the food makes up, and it’s a pleasure to dine in such a fine secret.