A delightful Armenian snack shop serving grilled sandwiches with sujuk and bastirma spiced meat patties and pickles, ideally washed down with an ayran yoghurt drink. Sirop has been here since 1963, and although the country has undergone many profound changes since, the reputation of the place and the retro interior remain. The staff advised us to order two – and they're right, of course. Just off the Al-Salehiyeh pedestrian street, an oasis of calm in this traffic-mad city.