The northernmost and loftiest part of the huge Carpathian mountain range, the Tatras (Polish, Tatry) spread out south from Zakopane and cover a territory comprising the southern part of Poland as well northern Slovakia. The highest of the spectacular karst peaks reach some 2,500m in Poland, and remain one of the few surviving areas of unadulterated, pristine wilderness in Europe. Immensely popular during the warmer months for its invigorating air, breathtaking scenery and wildlife including brown bears, chamois and soaring eagles, the Tatra mountain range offers plenty of choice for the visiting outdoor type. Due to its location, Zakopane is the place where most hikers choose to base themselves. There are a number of recognised hiking routes, all accessed via gates into the Tatra National Park from Zakopane or nearby. The following are by no means inclusive and are intended as tasters rather than full guides. Books and maps relating to these and other trails can be bought all over Zakopane, including Jerzy Kosim’s recommended The Polish Tatra: An Illustrated Guide. Published in 2001 by Kurier Geograficzny, the book can be found in most bookshops in Zakopane for between 26zł and 35zł. And don’t be fooled by the beauty of the place. Mountains can be dangerous places, with serious changes in weather happening in just a few minutes. Always tell somebody where you’re going and when you intend to be back before heading into the mountains. Most hotel reception desks will happily oblige. Dolina means valley in Polish incidentally.

The 8km Dolina Kościeliska trail follows what’s considered to be one of the most beautiful valleys in the Tatras. Ideal for children, the walk includes a number of caves that can be entered and includes the lovely Kościelisko Stream that runs alongside most of the trail. The site of an iron mine that was abandoned in 1876, the valley is now used for grazing sheep. Shepherds can be found along the trail selling fresh cheese during the spring and summer. Dolina Pięciu Stawów translates as Five Ponds Valley, which, not surprisingly, features five ponds along the way. Between Morskie Oko and Kozi Wierch, Dolina Pięciu Stawów also boats the liveliest waterfall in the Polish Tatras. A shelter is provided at 1,671m, the highest shelter in Poland. Giewont Mountain rises 1,895m above sea level and is known locally as the Sleeping Knight as that’s what it’s supposed to resemble. Giewont is actually three individual peaks, namely the Giewonts Large, Small and Long, of which the former is crowned by a rather hideous 15m cross, a recognised symbol throughout the country. Giewont features a number of trails, of which the Blue Trail is considered the most representative. Next up is Dolina Chochołowska, which is accessed from the village of Chochołów a few kilometres northwest of Zakopane. Beloved for the carpet of crocuses that covers the region’s largest valley during the spring, Dolina Chochołowska was a particular favourite walking place of the late Pope John Paul II, who chose it as a venue for meeting Lech Wałęsa and his family back in 1983. Orla Perć (Eagle’s Trail) is considered one of the more difficult trails that’s more of a climb than a walk in places. Taking at least eight hours to complete, this pro-assault is littered with chains, ladders, buckles and other contraptions placed to aid those brave enough to take it on, but, if you have the time, experience and nerve is one of the most rewarding adventures the Tatras has to offer.